Brandacujun | The Most Curious (and Delicious) Dish of Western Liguria

Anyone visiting Liguria quickly discovers that local cuisine is built around simple dishes deeply connected to the sea and rural traditions. Among the most authentic recipes of Western Liguria, there is one with a particularly unusual name: Brandacujun.

Behind this curious name lies one of the most traditional dishes of the Riviera di Ponente: a creamy preparation made with stockfish or salted cod, potatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and Mediterranean herbs — a true symbol of genuine Ligurian cuisine.

A Dish Born from the Sea

Brandacujun has ancient maritime origins. According to local tradition, it was prepared by Ligurian sailors during long sea voyages using ingredients that could easily be preserved on board, such as dried stockfish and potatoes.

It was a humble yet ingenious cuisine: a few inexpensive and nutritious ingredients transformed into a surprisingly flavorful dish. Even today, Brandacujun perfectly represents the philosophy of Ligurian cooking — enhancing simple ingredients through technique and tradition.

A Truly Curious Name

The name itself is probably the dish’s most famous feature.

The word comes from the Ligurian dialect verb “brandare,” meaning “to shake vigorously.” During preparation, the pot is energetically shaken to mix the fish and potatoes until a creamy texture is achieved.

There are many legends surrounding the second part of the name. One popular story says that shaking the pot was traditionally assigned to the least experienced member of the kitchen crew, while other interpretations refer to the vigorous motion required to blend the dish properly.

Whatever the real origin may be, the result is certainly one of the most entertaining names in Italian cuisine.

Traditional Ingredients

The traditional recipe for Brandacujun is surprisingly simple. The main ingredients include:

• Stockfish or salted cod
• Potatoes
• Garlic and parsley
• Ligurian extra virgin olive oil
• Lemon zest or lemon juice
• Sometimes pine nuts or Taggiasca olive olives

The fish and potatoes are boiled together and then “brandati” — vigorously shaken with olive oil and herbs until the mixture becomes soft, creamy, and aromatic.

The final result is a delicate and velvety texture that can be enjoyed either warm or at room temperature.

How It Is Served Today

In Western Liguria, Brandacujun is served in several ways:

• As an appetizer with toasted bread or crostini
• As a traditional fish main course

It is often presented in elegant quenelles or simply served in a rustic bowl, just as tradition dictates.

A Local Tip

If you visit Western Liguria — between Ventimiglia, Sanremo, and Imperia — look for a traditional trattoria serving authentic Ligurian cuisine.

Brandacujun is one of those dishes that truly tells the story of the region: sea, tradition, and simplicity combined into a single recipe.