Sardenaira: A Focaccia with Many Names That Should Not Be Confused with Pizza

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Articolo del October 11, 2026. Pubblicato in Cuisine and flavours

Sardenaira is a simple preparation, born from popular culture and gradually becoming one of the gastronomic symbols of Western Liguria. It is one of those recipes that tells the story of a territory without the need for many ingredients, combining a leavened dough similar to focaccia with some of the most characteristic flavours of Ligurian cuisine. Despite the simplicity of its ingredients, however, the history of this baked speciality is more complex than it might seem. In Western Liguria, in fact, sardenaira changes name and, in some cases, even its preparation depending on where it is made.

Don't Call It Pizza

Sardenaira is often compared to pizza, but in Western Liguria the distinction is important, as sardenaira belongs to the tradition of topped focaccias, with its own history and specific characteristics. The base is a leavened dough, generally spread in a round or rectangular baking tray, and then topped with tomato sauce, accompanied by anchovy fillets, Taggiasca olives, capers, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. Unlike pizza, traditional sardenaira does not include mozzarella or cheese: it is a simple, flavourful focaccia, deeply connected to the products and aromas of the Mediterranean.

The Origins of Sardenaira

To discover the origins of sardenaira, you have to move away from the coast and head inland, particularly towards the Nervia Valley, between Dolceacqua, Apricale and Isolabona. Here, the machetusa is still known, an ancient preparation made with a focaccia-like leavened dough covered with machetu, a mixture of anchovies, oil and salt that was left to mature throughout the summer before being used. Tomato sauce was added only many years later, following the discovery of America, together with garlic, oregano, olives and capers. Today, sardenaira can be found in bakeries throughout Western Liguria and is also often served in local establishments as an aperitivo snack.

A Focaccia with Many Names

One of the most curious aspects of sardenaira is the variety of names used depending on where it is prepared. In Sanremo it is known as sardenaira; moving towards Imperia, you come across pissalandrea, while in Ventimiglia it is called pisciadèla. In Bordighera and Vallecrosia, it is traditionally known as pisciarà, while in Taggia the names sardenara or figassa are used. In Badalucco, it is called sardenaia. Once across the French border, the tradition continues and in Nice we find pissaladière. The name changes from place to place and, together with the name, some ingredients or preparation methods may also change.

The Ingredients of Sardenaira

The strength of sardenaira also lies in the simplicity of the ingredients required to prepare it. For the dough, all you need is flour, water, yeast, salt and extra virgin olive oil. The topping varies according to the recipe and therefore the area; however, in most cases, the main ingredient of the modern version is tomato sauce, to which the other ingredients are then added: anchovy fillets, garlic, oregano, Taggiasca olives and capers. Some variations, such as pissalandrea and Niçoise pissaladière, are characterised by the addition of onion. There is therefore no single, unchanging recipe: rather, there is a whole family of preparations sharing the same Mediterranean origins.

The Favourite Dish of Andrea Doria

The name pissalandrea is also connected to a curious tradition. According to one of the most widespread versions, the name is said to be linked to Andrea Doria, the admiral from Oneglia, and his alleged fondness for this preparation. This, however, is a gastronomic tradition rather than a definitively documented historical fact. The origin of the name remains the subject of different interpretations. Beyond the legend, the connection is interesting because it once again shows how deeply these preparations are intertwined with the history of Liguria and its territories.

A Tradition That Crosses the Border

The story of sardenaira does not end in Ventimiglia: continuing towards France, in the area around Nice, we find pissaladière, a preparation with clear links to the Ligurian tradition. Here too, we find a leavened dough base and a topping characterised by Mediterranean flavours, but with a much more prominent presence of onion and, in the traditional version, without tomato. These similarities are not accidental: the Ligurian Riviera and the French Riviera have shared commercial, cultural and gastronomic exchanges for centuries, and many recipes have crossed the border, changing over time.

An Ancient Recipe, Still Contemporary

Perhaps the secret of sardenaira is that it does not need to be reinvented. At a time when cuisine is constantly looking for new interpretations, sardenaira continues to work because it retains its simplicity and preserves immediately recognisable flavours. Its strength does not lie in complexity, but in its ability to represent the place from which it comes. It is a cuisine that speaks of the sea, olive groves, small inland villages and towns overlooking the Riviera. It speaks of Sanremo, but also of Dolceacqua, Apricale, Isolabona and the Nervia Valley. It speaks of a territory where the Mediterranean meets the mountains and where gastronomic traditions have travelled, changed and adapted over the centuries.